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No.58 January 2004 | Contex HOME

OUTING REPORT

A day in Winchester
Rose Baillie

The Weather Fairy who often blesses COLAS outings got up slightly later than the rest of us for our trip to Winchester, but by the time the coach had left London she had conjured up a perfect early autumn day.  Not that many noticed, we were too deeply engrossed in the numerous maps and information sheets that Jan and Alan Thompson had provided.  Winchester has a lot in a comparatively small space and our local guide, Ian Wykes, Senior Archaeologist in Hampshire County Council¹s Environmental Dept, was determined that we would see as much as he could pack in.

Our morning tour was around Winchester Cathedral (left) which, Ian explained, was but the Norman addition to an area that had had important churches and religious establishments since the 7th century AD.  The "Old Minster", (Winchester's first Cathedral) had been founded c. 643AD and was the burial place of many Saxon kings of Wessex. It was demolished after the present Cathedral was built, but the outline of its surviving foundations can be seen, as excavated by Martin Biddle.  Throughout medieval times Winchester remained one of the most wealthy and important dioceses, a fact reflected in the Cathedral¹s many side chapels and lavish bishops¹ tombs.  It is packed with features of interest, but my favourites were an expanse of medieval floor tiles in the retrochoir, the beautifully carved sculptures from the tomb-shrine of St Swithin and Great Screen (broken up at the Reformation) and rings and other relics found in the mortuary chests of the pre-Conquest kings and bishops.  Other notable sights were the tombs of Izaak Walton and Jane Austen, the Winchester Bible and the modern bronze statue of William Walker, "the diver who saved the Cathedral". 

Lunch was taken at one of the many local hostelries, after which most rejoined Ian for a walk up the High Street.  This has escaped gross modern re-development and has a number of interesting buildings.  It is a perfect example of the benefits of pedestrianisation.  Those who did not get lost in the crowds of Saturday shoppers and Morris Dancers were eventually led through a medieval tunnel to the plateau that was once crowned by Winchester Castle. 

Only the 13th century Great Hall survives intact, home of "King Arthur¹s Round Table".  This is probably a medieval wooden table painted with the king and his knights to compliment Henry VIII.   The second part of Ian¹s tour was a return to down hill, to take in the historic buildings of the Cathedral Close and former abbey, with a passing glance at Winchester College, the house where Jane Austen died and the Bishops¹ palace of Wolvesey.  As a final flourish Ian showed us a small section of what he claimed was the Roman city wall, but actually the Romans had left a greater legacy.  Winchester would not have its present shape, if they had not diverted the River Itchen.  Everywhere one looked there were historic buildings and places to return to on a second visit ­ the Town mill, the Museum, the West Gate and military museums to name but a few.

The party had one last trip to make up the by now familiar High Street to the Forte Brasserie for a most welcome cream tea, after which it was back to the coach for smooth journey home, enlivened by the traditional raffle.

Many thanks from us all to Jan and Alan Thompson for a meticulously organised and thoroughly enjoyable day out.